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STEERING A SIDECAR

One must first realize that there is a marked difference between riding solo and sidecar riding. Practice is necessary to develop a good and safe sidecar driver. The word driver is important since one drives a sidecar outfit, while one rides a solo machine. Techniques in cornering and steering must be developed by the novice driver. These two points are the main difference between solo riding and sidecar driving. Cornering and steering are easily mastered since the problem of balance during solo riding is eliminated.

At speed, a solo machine negotiates a turn by a slight movement of the handlebars and occasionally a shifting in body weight. When a sidecar outfit is driven, the machine is vertical to the road surface at all times.

A sidecar is steered and cornered solely by moving the handlebars either to the right or left. See the illustration below:

handlebars

This means there is a considerable amount of handlebar movement depending on the sharpness of the turn. This conscious need to drive the sidecar outfit by considerable handlebar movement is the main difficulty solo riders encounter.

Because of this difference in turning it is necessary for even the experienced solo rider to be aware of the need to steer the sidecar outfit. If one does not concentrate on this point, an accident could occur because the driver was not able to negotiate a turn or avoid an obstacle.

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With standard telescopic forks See the illustration below:

Motorcycle mfg.'s design these forks for two wheel stability. Leaning into a turn and self-centering action. It is combined effects of a number of things, one of them is TRAIL.

What happens when you attach a sidecar to a motorcycle? It will no longer handle like it was designed to do (no leaning into the turns). Now it must be steered.

Is it unsafe? NO. Here's what happens. The faster and harder you drive into the turns, the more pressure you need to apply on the handle bars. What is the solution to this problem?

ANSWER: Reduce the TRAIL. This is accomplished by installing The Unit Leading Link Fork. See illustration below:

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Ahh, Yes! Effortless. Just like power steering.

Utilizing the machine's existing yokes, substantial twin walled legs are allied to a fully braced swinging fork, pivoted on four sealed ball races and including caliper mounts which enable original components to be fitted. Springing and damping are controlled by units specially prepared for this use by the Koni Factory and mounted at their upper pivots by adjustable clamps. The forks come complete with a fine molded glassfibre mudguard, stays and extended Goodridge brake hoses or parts to suit bike.

Unit Leading Link Fork systems have been rigorously tested in all conditions, from the deserts in Africa to the Arctic Circle.

Fitting instructions, and a two-year unlimited mileage guarantee against manufacturing defect on all forks (damper units one year) all forks accepted by German T.U.V.

The following are just a small selection of models for which we manufacture unit forks:

  • (BMW) R45, R65, R75/5/6/7/, R80 mono, R100 all models, R100/75 all models
  • (HARLEY DAVIDSON) XL Sportstar, FLHTC, etc.
  • (HONDA) CB400/500/650/750/900 FOUR, CX500/650, VF750, Gold Wing all models 1000cc, 1200cc, 1500cc etc.
  • (KAWASAKI) 400 Twin, GT650 Z & Sr, GT750, Z1000, A1/A2, GTR1000, Z13000 etc.
  • (MOTO GUZZI) All 850, 1000 and Mk III models.
  • (MZ) 300
  • (SUZUKI) 400GSX, GT650, GS750/850/1100.
  • (YAHAMA) XS400/500/650/750/850/1100, XJ650/900,TRI, V max.
  • BRITISH MOTORCYCLES: Triumph T140/160, Norton and BSA to special order.

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